12 Common Soap Making Mistakes and Ways to Avoid Them
Soap making is a beloved craft that combines creativity and science, yielding luxurious, skin-nourishing bars. Yet, for all its rewards, the process can be daunting—especially for newcomers. Even seasoned soap makers occasionally face mishaps, from crumbly textures to mysterious orange spots. But fear not! Most soap-making errors are easily avoidable with a little know-how. In this guide, we’ll dive deep into 12 common pitfalls and share actionable solutions to help you craft flawless soap every time. Let’s get started!
Mistake: Choosing oils without considering their properties can lead to bars that are too soft (think: mushy olive oil soap), too brittle, or lacking in lather.
Solution: Not all oils are created equal!
Mistake: Eyeballing oils or lye can throw off your soap’s chemical balance, leading to harsh or oily bars. Volume measurements (cups, spoons) are unreliable—ingredients vary in density!
Solution: Invest in a digital kitchen scale (precision to 0.1 grams is ideal). Measure oils, lye, and water by weight. For example, 500g of olive oil is far more accurate than “2 cups.”
Mistake: Guessing lye amounts risks lye-heavy soap (skin burns) or excess oil (spoilage).
Solution: Always use a lye calculator. Each oil has a unique saponification (SAP) value—the exact lye needed to convert it to soap. Double-check your inputs, and consider a “lye discount” (reducing lye by 5% for a gentler bar).
Mistake: Pouring soap before it emulsifies (light trace) can cause separation. Over-blending to thick trace may leave you scrambling to add colors or scents.
Solution: Trace refers to the mixture’s thickness.
Mistake: Oils too hot (>130°F) can overheat the soap, causing cracks. Too cold (<90°F) may lead to false trace (oils solidify).
Solution: Aim for 100–120°F (38–49°C) for both oils and lye solution. Use a thermometer—or let both cool to room temperature before mixing.
Bonus: If your soap overheats in the mold, pop it in the fridge to slow the reaction.
Mistake: Tap water’s minerals (calcium, chlorine) can react with lye, creating soap scum or uneven saponification.
Solution: Distilled water is pure and predictable. In a pinch, use filtered water—but never mineral-rich spring or well water.
Mistake: Adding too much fragrance (over 3-5%) can irritate skin or accelerate trace. Adding it too early may cause scent fade.
Solution:
Mistake: Over-insulating (e.g., wrapping in towels) can overheat soap, causing “volcano” cracks or uneven gel phase.
Solution:
Gel phase (a translucent stage) enhances vibrant colors but isn’t mandatory. To prevent overheating:
Mistake: Lye is corrosive! Skipping gloves or goggles risks burns.
Solution: Suit up like a chemist:
Mistake: Unmolding too soon (under 24 hours) can dent or crumble bars.
Solution: Wait 24–48 hours. For stubborn recipes (e.g., 100% olive oil castile), wait a week. Speed things up with:
Mistake: Using soap too early results in a soft, slimy bar that dissolves fast.
Solution: Cure soap 4–6 weeks (longer for castile). Curing:
Mistake: Trapping moisture in airtight containers encourages dreaded DOS (orange rancid spots) or mold.
Solution:
Conclusion
Soap making is a journey of experimentation—and yes, occasional mishaps! But each “oops” moment is a chance to learn. Remember, even lumpy or oddly shaped bars can still be gentle and effective (they’re perfect for personal use!). Share your favorite soap-making triumphs (or disasters!) in the comments below.
Happy soaping! 🧼✨
1. Using the Wrong Oils or Ratios
Mistake: Choosing oils without considering their properties can lead to bars that are too soft (think: mushy olive oil soap), too brittle, or lacking in lather.
Solution: Not all oils are created equal!
- Hard oils (like coconut, palm, or cocoa butter) add structure and cleansing properties.
- Soft oils (like olive, sunflower, or sweet almond) contribute to moisturizing and creamy lather.
- Use a soap calculator to balance these oils. For example, a classic beginner recipe might blend 40% olive oil (moisturizing), 30% coconut oil (cleansing), and 30% palm oil (hardness).
Pro Tip: Add a 5-8% superfat to ensure extra moisturizing benefits and buffer against measurement errors.
2. Not Measuring Ingredients Accurately
Mistake: Eyeballing oils or lye can throw off your soap’s chemical balance, leading to harsh or oily bars. Volume measurements (cups, spoons) are unreliable—ingredients vary in density!
Solution: Invest in a digital kitchen scale (precision to 0.1 grams is ideal). Measure oils, lye, and water by weight. For example, 500g of olive oil is far more accurate than “2 cups.”
Why It Matters: A mere 5% excess lye can cause irritation, while too little leaves unsaponified oils (greasy bars).
3. Incorrect Lye Calculation
Mistake: Guessing lye amounts risks lye-heavy soap (skin burns) or excess oil (spoilage).
Solution: Always use a lye calculator. Each oil has a unique saponification (SAP) value—the exact lye needed to convert it to soap. Double-check your inputs, and consider a “lye discount” (reducing lye by 5% for a gentler bar).
Pro Tip: Save your recipe digitally to replicate successes or troubleshoot failures.
4. Not Reaching Proper Trace
Mistake: Pouring soap before it emulsifies (light trace) can cause separation. Over-blending to thick trace may leave you scrambling to add colors or scents.
Solution: Trace refers to the mixture’s thickness.
- Light trace: Smooth, like pancake batter. Ideal for swirling designs.
- Medium trace: Pudding-like. Safe for most additives.
- Thick trace: Stiff peaks. Hurry—it’s about to harden!
- Use a stick blender in short bursts to control trace. Hand stirring? Patience is key!
5. Overheating or Underheating Oils
Mistake: Oils too hot (>130°F) can overheat the soap, causing cracks. Too cold (<90°F) may lead to false trace (oils solidify).
Solution: Aim for 100–120°F (38–49°C) for both oils and lye solution. Use a thermometer—or let both cool to room temperature before mixing.
Bonus: If your soap overheats in the mold, pop it in the fridge to slow the reaction.
6. Using Tap Water Instead of Distilled Water
Mistake: Tap water’s minerals (calcium, chlorine) can react with lye, creating soap scum or uneven saponification.
Solution: Distilled water is pure and predictable. In a pinch, use filtered water—but never mineral-rich spring or well water.
7. Adding Fragrance or Essential Oils Incorrectly
Mistake: Adding too much fragrance (over 3-5%) can irritate skin or accelerate trace. Adding it too early may cause scent fade.
Solution:
- Check usage rates on supplier guidelines. Citrus EOs? Stick to 1-2%.
- Add at trace to lock in scent. For accelerating fragrances (e.g., florals), work quickly or use a premixed colorant.
Fun Fact: Some fragrance oils cause “ricing” (tiny clumps)—stir gently to smooth them out.
8. Soap Overheating in the Mold
Mistake: Over-insulating (e.g., wrapping in towels) can overheat soap, causing “volcano” cracks or uneven gel phase.
Solution:
Gel phase (a translucent stage) enhances vibrant colors but isn’t mandatory. To prevent overheating:
- Place molds in a cool, ventilated area.
- Refrigerate if using milk or sugar (prone to overheating).
- Embrace partial gel—it’s a rustic look!
9. Not Using Proper Safety Gear
Mistake: Lye is corrosive! Skipping gloves or goggles risks burns.
Solution: Suit up like a chemist:
- Nitrile gloves (latex dissolves in lye!)
- Goggles (no exceptions!)
- Long sleeves and ventilation (mix lye near an open window).
Story Time: One soap maker accidentally splashed lye on their arm—a red, itchy lesson learned!
10. Rushing the Unmolding Process
Mistake: Unmolding too soon (under 24 hours) can dent or crumble bars.
Solution: Wait 24–48 hours. For stubborn recipes (e.g., 100% olive oil castile), wait a week. Speed things up with:
- Sodium lactate (1 tsp per pound of oils) hardens bars faster.
- Freeze molds for 1 hour before unmolding.
11. Skipping the Cure Time
Mistake: Using soap too early results in a soft, slimy bar that dissolves fast.
Solution: Cure soap 4–6 weeks (longer for castile). Curing:
- Evaporates water, hardening bars.
- Lowers pH for milder soap.
- Enhances lather and longevity.
Pro Tip: Use a curing rack for airflow, and rotate bars weekly.
12. Storing Soap Incorrectly
Mistake: Trapping moisture in airtight containers encourages dreaded DOS (orange rancid spots) or mold.
Solution:
- Cure in a dry, ventilated space (not the bathroom!).
- Store cured bars in breathable wrappers (parchment paper, cardboard boxes). Add silica gel packets to absorb humidity.
Conclusion
Soap making is a journey of experimentation—and yes, occasional mishaps! But each “oops” moment is a chance to learn. Remember, even lumpy or oddly shaped bars can still be gentle and effective (they’re perfect for personal use!). Share your favorite soap-making triumphs (or disasters!) in the comments below.
Happy soaping! 🧼✨